Actives & Targeted Treatments

The molecules the data actually backs.

Six treatment formulas built around retinaldehyde, tranexamic acid, peptides, mandelic-lactic-PHA, and a stabilized vitamin C derivative. Every percentage is listed on the bottle. If a molecule is below the studied dose, it doesn’t go in.

6 treatments·Avg rating 4.8 from 4,820+ reviews·Derm-reviewed · pH-buffered

From the lab in Echo Park

The two questions we ask every formula.

First: does the dose meet the clinical literature?Niacinamide at 10%, retinaldehyde at 0.3%, tranexamic acid at 3% — these are the percentages the published studies actually used. We don’t put a molecule on the front of the bottle at a dose the data doesn’t support.

Second: does the skin tolerate the vehicle? The molecule does the work, but the carrier decides whether your skin can wear the formula. We buffer to pH 5.5 (the skin’s natural acidity), we omit fragrance and essential oils, and every formulation passes a 60-person sensitivity panel before it ships.

The result is an actives shelf that’s honest about the dose and gentle about the delivery. Six formulas, every one derm-reviewed, every percentage listed.

Maya ReyesHead of Formulation · Vellum Lab, Echo Park

Showing 6 products

Filtered byConcern:Anti-agingRoutine step:TreatPrice:$60 – $90Clear all

The Vellum layering map

What layers with what.

Mornings target oxidative defense and pigmentation. Evenings target cellular turnover and recovery. The four-step diagram below is the routine the derm panel recommends for combo and normal skin.

  1. Cleanse

    Milk Jelly Cleanser

    30-second wash. Lifts the night without disturbing the acid mantle.

  2. Treat

    Tranexamic + Vit C

    Pigmentation + antioxidant defense. Layer the essence under the serum.

  3. Resurface

    Retinaldehyde 0.3%

    Nightly as tolerated. AHA pad three nights a week, on off-retinoid nights.

  4. Recover

    Peptide Concentrate

    Collagen signaling + post-active recovery. Pairs with the Ceramide Recovery Balm.

Clean-Tested1,800+ ingredient screen
Dermatologist-ReviewedBoard-certified panel
Cruelty-FreeLeaping Bunny certified
Carbon-NeutralClimate Neutral Certified
4.9
8,412 verified reviews

“The rare indie brand whose product actually delivers on the packaging.”

★★★★★
“The Radiance Serum is the first product in my entire life that visibly evened my skin tone. I’m on bottle four. The pump is a small joy every morning.”

Jordan M.

Verified buyer · Radiance Serum, used 6 months

★★★★★
“Sensitive, reactive, postpartum skin — Cushion Cream is the only moisturizer I’ve been able to use daily without a single flare in five months.”

Emily V.

Verified buyer · Cushion Cream, used 5 months

★★★★★
“I have a cabinet of $200 cleansing balms and the Marble one out-performs every single one. The texture, the rinse-off, the no-residue. Cult product.”

Priya R.

Verified buyer · Marble Cleansing Balm, used 4 months

Frequently asked

Actives, answered honestly.

How do I layer retinaldehyde with vitamin C and tranexamic acid?
Vitamin C and tranexamic acid in the morning, under SPF. Retinaldehyde at night, on alternate evenings with the Peptide Repair Concentrate while you build tolerance. After week four most users move to nightly retinaldehyde. The three actives target different stages of the pigment and collagen pathway, so they compound rather than compete.
What does “encapsulated” mean for retinaldehyde?
Retinaldehyde is unstable in light, oxygen, and water — which is why most OTC retinoid bottles oxidize to orange within weeks. We use a hydroxypinacolone retinoate matrix that physically wraps the molecule. The matrix releases slowly on warm skin, which both extends shelf life and lowers irritation. The amber UV-glass bottle and airless pump handle the rest.
Why use mandelic acid instead of glycolic?
Glycolic acid is the smallest AHA molecule, so it diffuses fastest and produces the strongest sting. Mandelic is larger — about three times the molecular size — which means it diffuses more slowly and gives the skin time to adapt. The clinical resurfacing endpoint is the same; the path there is gentler. We pair it with low-dose lactic acid and a PHA for a tri-acid approach that stays barrier-friendly.
Can I use these on sensitive skin?
Yes — every Actives formula goes through a 60-person sensitivity panel, including reactive and rosacea-adjacent skin. The Retinaldehyde 0.3%, Tranexamic Brightening Serum, and Peptide Repair Concentrate cleared with zero discontinuations. The Slow Resurface AHA Pad and Ascorbic Glow Essence are pH-neutral or near-neutral and also clear. If you’re unsure, start with the Tranexamic — it’s the gentlest of the actives shelf.
What happens if I don’t use SPF in the morning?
The work undoes itself. Actives work below the surface — retinaldehyde at the basal layer, tranexamic acid at the keratinocyte, peptides at the fibroblast. Unprotected UV exposure triggers the exact processes those molecules are designed to interrupt. The Morning Veil SPF 50 is specifically formulated to layer over every Vellum active without pilling.
When will I see results?
Mandelic acid: smoother surface in 7–10 days. Tranexamic acid: visible tone evening at 6–8 weeks. Retinaldehyde: measurable line softening at 8–12 weeks. The Peptide Repair Concentrate gives an immediate-day plumping benefit and longer-term collagen support over 12 weeks. We’ll email you at the milestones with grading prompts.

The Vellum Circle

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